Tear Down Part 7

How to remove wiring harness on a Suzuki Intruder VS1400

Summary

Tools Required

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Front wiring loom

As we’ve removed the radiator in a previous tutorial, it’ll be a lot easier the free the horn, front indicator and headlight wiring through the front channel where the air box used to sit. The only wires left at the front should be the control wiring.

 

 Coil Packs

Your coil packs provide the spark to the spark plug, so if your spark plugs aren’t working and a new spark plug doesn’t fix it, it may be that you’ve got a bad coil pack or a bad ground on your coil pack. The first thing to do to remove the coil packs is to remove the power supply. Keep note of what cable goes where for the rebuild process. There’s a positive and negative on both of the coil packs which are connected with spade connectors. Remove them, taking note of the colours of the wires.

Next, remove the bolts that go through the ground posts. This will need an 8mm spanner on each of the four bolts. The ground posts, or sleeves may differ in size – The longer ground posts need to go on the rear coil pack.

Note: The front coil pack feeds the rear cylinder and the rear coil pack feeds the front cylinder.

 

Spark Plugs

If you follow the cables from the coil packs, they’ll go to the spark plugs. You’ll need a 10mm spanner or socket to remove the head cases/guards to get to the spark plugs. Loosen off the 10 mm bolts and remove the casing and then pop off the cable from the spark plug. Then, grab an 18mm socket, with an extension and loosen the spark plug, but if you’re leaving it for any length of time, leave the spark plug in to protect from dirt ingress. Once both cables are free, feed them through the frame towards the coil packs to free them. If needed, you can remove the tips by just pulling them off, just make sure you replace them (push and twist – there’s a slight thread on the inner spike) once the cable is free.

 

Wiring loom

Now, under the seat, we can disconnect the fuel pump wire, the rectifier, ECU, the ignition barrel, foot brake light switch, and any grounds or other wires that remain attached. You may need a 10mm spanner to remove any terminals that are left in place (like on the starter motor cable). Make sure you know where everything goes, especially if you suspect it’s not stock. Once everything is loose, you should be able to remove the entire wiring harness.

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Hägar - Intruder Viking

Hägar - Intruder Viking

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